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REVIEW: One Twenty Six a classic Iowa City restaurant

05-28-2008 | Dining

By LaDawn Edwards

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There’s so much to love about eating in Iowa City restaurants. I love how intelligent the servers are; because they recognize the relationship between fulfilling my special order and the size of the tip I will probably leave them, having food prepared the way I like it feels more like a conversation than an argument. I love that people care more about using the best available ingredient—whenever I see a menu that mentions hormone-free beef I know that this place probably put the same care into everything sharing the plate with that steak. I also love the original artwork that hangs in most of the city’s restaurants. It may not all be local or even my style, but it’s refreshing to get a break from the kitschy junk of chain restaurants.

One Twenty Six may be the quintessential Iowa City restaurant. The service was friendly, professional and flawless. (Free coat check anyone?) I met a friend there for lunch on a recent weekday. Settling into our booth, we noted the open kitchen and wine bar, with more seating upstairs.

This lunch was notable because I didn’t find a single thing that could be improved upon. Not only do they offer bread at lunch (for a $2 charge, I must note) but it’s heavenly--warm, wonderfully crusty with honey butter. My companion ordered the day’s soup—coconut carrot with a kick of ginger. Very nice! She also had the grilled mushroom sandwich with mozzarella. It arrived as a casual pile of lightly seasoned button mushrooms on chewy focaccia bread decorated with garlic aioli mayonnaise.

The lunch menu was diverse enough to make choosing difficult, so I ordered two entrees, a salad and a sandwich. The ample grilled vegetable salad really could have been my whole lunch—bits of asparagus, pea sprouts, and zucchini hot off the grill mixed with dots of warm goat cheese, split cherry tomatoes, pine nuts and de-seeded cucumber slices on spring greens. I didn’t notice a dressing, but I’m sure the chef provided one to work its subtle magic. The food at One Twenty Six was both delicious and satisfying—I felt really nourished by it.

My lunch continued as a crab cake sandwich arrived on focaccia bread, with a side of warm potato salad. This traditional side dish was very good, with the proper hint of mustard. It is normally mixed with crumbled bacon, but the menu explains that they add it just before serving. This allows vegetarians, and anybody else who doesn’t eat pork, to also enjoy this lovely side. (Is it cultural sensitivity? Good business sense? Both?) Given this dietary consideration, I have a hunch that the soup was also made without animal products. And for the many local vegetarians, (who are always looking for non-ethnic restaurants where they can dine out) I want to mention the black bean burger, which the server gave high marks to.

I paged through the multi-page wine list that pulls from South Africa to New Zealand and back to California. I picked a glass of the Trinquevedel Tavel rosé for $10. I hesitate to describe wines, because I don’t know enough about them to do them justice, but I will say that it added an elegant touch to an already exceptional meal. I would love to describe the desserts, but we had neither room nor time for them. I will eagerly return for the house-made desserts that might include citrus cilantro sorbet, flourless chocolate torte or lemon pound cake with crème Anglais. Until then, I can dream...